First debuted at New York Fashion Week, Spring Summer 23 ‘Lumen’ has arrived.

lensed against the pearlescent pink backdrop of Lake Bumbunga in South Australia, Aje Co-founders Adrian Norris and Edwina Forest envisioned the collection as an homage to the perennial beauty and power of dawn, the universal symbol of hope and new beginnings.

Embodying this allegory, archival silhouettes are reinvigorated with Aje’s beloved modern handwriting, including elevated takes on texture, sculptural shapes and intricate embellishment.

Below, a closer look at the delicate details of Spring Summer 23 'Lumen'.

Underscoring the entire collection, ‘deconstruction meets reconstruction’ is the defining design theme of Summer 23 ‘Lumen’. Rooted in the reimagining of archival Aje silhouettes, the philosophy manifests in tactile scrunches and folds of fabrics to create undone drapes, ‘falling’ straps and asymmetrical backs and necklines delicately held together by hand-moulded pins, and the use of raw seam allowances for an undone effect.

Recurring throughout the collection, pearls take both embellishment and functional form within Summer 23 ‘Lumen’, including organically shaped pin fastenings, beading upon floral motifs and delicate stud details.

Featured throughout the collection, intricate pintucking appears prominently on dress bodices to create a corset-style fit without boning and is frequently released at the hips to allow for contrasting volume through the hems.

Appearing in myriad forms, pleating is utilised to enhance fit, dimension and silhouette. Like pintucking, it is frequently found shaping bodices to create corset-like shapes, while also adding depth to sheer fabrics and creating volume through pleat-and-release techniques.

Evolving Aje’s signature sense of untamed volume, Summer 23 ‘Lumen’ sees a more focused approach to shapely silhouettes. Classic puff sleeves are softened in proportions, while bubble hems and sculptural accents are pared back with more fitted silhouettes and a tamer juxtaposition of ruched and pleated textures.

Imagined through a contemporary lens, cornelli embellishment presents predominantly as beaded, abstract floral motifs and subtle cloud patterns with a tone-on-tone approach for an enhanced sense of dimension.

Discover Spring Summer 23 'Lumen'